Tina’s Foodie Blog

A clumsy ode to Spice Temple’s heavenly facing chilli and sichuan peppercorn dish.

Since eating at Spice Temple a month ago I haven’t been able to stop thinking about those feisty little peppercorns. I was chatting to a friend of mine on the phone the other night while cooking this so it got a little more crispy than intended but it just added to the intensity of flavour on the skin. Tongue numbing, aromatic, mouth watering.

I have seen Kylie Kwong toast sichuan peppercorns with sea salt in a hot pan until aromatic and then grind them up to a powder in a mortar and pestle. This is essentially what I did and then added a little smoky paprika and sugar and rubbed it into the skin of an organic chicken, added a little oil to the bird with a few cloves of unpeeled garlic inside and whacked it in a hot oven. Oh, and I threw in a few dutch cream potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks. I normally go for 220°C fan forced, 20 minutes each on its side, on its other side and on its back. I sound like Samantha from SATC.

The end result is a moist chicken with a crispy skin, with potatoes that taste more like wedges as they have absorbed all the chickeny goodness and are lightly flavoured with sichuan.

Next step is to try this with quail, or maybe duck…and I don’t think it needs the smoky paprika or sugar.

Just to stress the point, this is a roast that takes just an hour to cook, plus preparation time. So maybe realistic for a weeknight when you don’t get home too late.

Neil Perry’s Spice Temple is located underneath Rockpool Bar & Grill on Bligh Street in Sydney’s CBD. At first we walked past its plasma screen door, assuming it was an advertisement with its virtual shimmering silk curtains. Once we discovered that it was actually the front door we glided down the circular staircase to the industrial looking bar area. The restaurant area however couldn’t be more different. The room is warm, cosy and dark, with the centre of each table lit by a hanging light, so that each dish can be viewed clearly. This ambience is comfortable and relaxing. You can see your dining companion and food but feel bathed in shadow. Very sexy.

The Sheep and the Monkey. I meant to have just one cocktail and then move to a civilised wine. Mmmm. The cocktails are dangerously good. Be warned. After three cocktails I thought perhaps it was time to pause.

The Horse and the Tiger. The Tiger is my favourite. If you are not familiar with the term ‘pistachio fat-washed whisky’, do ask. They’ll tell you how its made. An amazing depth of flavour uncommon in most Sydney cocktails.

Spinach and Sesame Salad. Sweet and tangy.

Crispy pork belly. I don’t really have words to describe. Too good. Must have. Oh ok, found some. Sticky, salty, moreish. Feel bratty, want some now.

Stir fried king abalone mushroom with garlic and chives. Thick, meaty, almost squeaky. Such a filling vegetable dish, delicious.

Fish drowned in heaven facing chillies and Sichuan peppercorns (apparently Sichuan, Szechuan and Szechwan are all acceptable spellings). My favourite choice for drama alone. This dish was covered with many more dried chillies which were removed by the waiter using a spider (large wire spoon). The real star is the Sichuan peppercorn which numbs your tongue and teases you.

My only negative comment I could say about Spice Temple is the double seating. If you prefer to relax into the evening then book the later seating rather than the early one. With some restaurants you are happy to leave at a given time, but here I think you’ll want to linger a while.

Spice Temple

10 Bligh Street, Sydney

8078 1888

A few weeks ago we went to Filicudi, an Italian restaurant that came highly recommended by a colleague. So highly recommended in fact that discussion of my future firstborn arose. Don’t worry I didn’t promise anything.

Fiore di Zucchini. These were beautiful and cheesy, but starting with garlic bread and then these was not really a good plan considering we ended up having three courses.

Gnocchi Ragu- tender succulent gnocchi with a simple sauce studded with meat chunks.

Penne Granchi (blue swimmer crab in a ‘pink’ sauce is how this dish was described). This was probably my favourite dish, it absolutely tests the love in your relationship- if you’re willing to share this one then you know you’re on to a good thing.

Costolette d’Agnello. Marinaded lamb cutlets (garlic, rosemary and olive oil?) grilled to the customer’s liking (medium to medium-rare) on a bed of soft polenta that was neither dry nor bland.

Baileys Creme Brulee. With enough Baileys added to the mix so that you can actually taste it. The top was satisfyingly hard and shattered on a firm whack of the spoon.

Written up on the specials board quite simply as ‘Mascarpone’. Described by the waiter as a house special, it was magnificent, a rich, creamy, liqueur-laden tiramisu. I want to go back and try the Pere Filicudi- poached pears.

I also think the pizzas are worth trying as we saw several people walk past, arms laden with pizza boxes looking quite pleased with themselves.

BYO is accepted, and for $2 per person is fantastically reasonable.

Filicudi

11 Ramsay Rd, Fivedock

9713 8733

I have long been a fan of Martelli’s fruit market at West Epping just on Carlingford Rd at the top of the hill near the primary school. It used to be on the way to work. I have also become a semi-regular shopper at their Cherrybrook Shopping Centre store. The Cherrybrook store has the added convenience of a decent fishmonger, a great butcher and a fabulous deli. Along with a supermarket and liquor store it makes my work a whole lot easier when everything is in the one place, but unlike the average supermarket, the quality of the produce is outstanding, fresh and reasonably priced. I say average as a disclaimer, as I know there are some supermarkets where the range and quality are fantastic, but on the whole this is what I find in the Sydney suburbs. I am still hoping in vain that one day our local IGA will become as fantastic as the one at Haberfield. Moving to Haberfield right now is not a financially viable option.

Anyway, I was at a baby shower the other week and got to chatting about food, again. Rouse Hill shopping centre came up and Martelli’s was mentioned. Until today I hadn’t been to the Rouse Hill Martelli’s as it is not ‘on the way’ to any of my usual destinations but is actually not too long a drive. I was surprised by how big the shop was. A wide range of fresh produce not always easy to find, all in one location. A smallgoods counter, plenty of cheeses and dairy, olive oils, jams, bread etc. plus a wide range of quality frozen goods too. They even stock a few ‘Essential Ingredient’ items such as duck fat. Good to know, if ever I am in dire need of chips cooked in duck fat. Try it sometime.

Ok now you can tell I have been watching Julia Child. I am recommending our nation eat more duck fat. Oh well.

Just for a little bit of Meta-blogging…

I managed to persuade Dave to see Julie & Julia the movie last night. I’d read the book which wasn’t all that well written (in my opinion) but still enjoyable for the food factor. The movie however, was highly entertaining, with several moments when I realised I was probably laughing a little too loud. The best bit was when I looked over and realised Dave was enjoying it almost as much as I was.

I was aware of Julia Child’s book ‘Mastering the Art of French Cooking’, but hadn’t actually seen any of Julia Child’s shows before. So I didn’t fully appreciate Meryl Streep’s brilliant work until I watched a few YouTube clips of Julia’s cooking shows. Streep nails her voice and mannerisms perfectly. I highly recommend watching the movie, if not for the chick flick factor then definitely for the food porn.

Julia Child is a wonderful teacher and such an eccentric person, she’s a pleasure to watch.

On the corner of Avoca Street and Belmore Road is a special piece of Randwick’s (and my) history. Once a butcher, a post office, and numerous other establishments including a lovely little cafe called Al Dente where I used to work while at Uni.

A favourite place of mine to go for the food, the service, the ambience and the memories. They still do the Pre-Ritz special where you can have two courses plus tea/coffee for $55. I found it to be as good as ever, excellent value and a fantastic night out.

A leek and potato veloute to whet the appetite

Entree of white asparagus with poached egg, celeriac and manchego

Braised veal shin and spring vegetables

served with roast sweetbread, smoked bone marrow and pearl barley

Macleay Valley rabbit and trompette pie with a ballontine of saddle and baby carrots

A generous serve of Firstlight venison with spiced quince, red cabbage and parsnips

Pear tart fine with prune and almond ice cream

Marscarpone and rhubarb mille feuille with a short rendition of ‘happy birthday to you…’

Restaurant Balzac 141 Belmore Road Randwick NSW 2031     Ph: + 61 2 9399 9660

Tues to Sat –  from 6pm
Friday Lunch only – 12pm to 3pm
Last Sunday of every Month - from 6.30pm (Seasonal Degustation only)

When several foodie friends rave about a restaurant you absolutely must try, one that’s delicious, hospitable and reasonably priced, you have to go. So, after meaning to go for quite a while I finally got there. Non La is at the north eastern end of Surry Hills, between South Dowling and Bourke St. It’s clean, cosy and comfortable. The service is warm, polite and unobtrusive. Depending on who you get it might also be a little cheeky with a delicious smile, or wry with a professor’s intelligent grin.

But let’s get to the food, you must try the quail. I have never had such a perfectly seasoned bird. It was tender and succulent with a little crispness on the outside and a perfect mix of salt and pepper (and perhaps a secret ingredient or two) to make each bite crave the next. This place is not so formal that you can’t suck all the meat off the bones, in fact you must do so.

The pancake was more filling than expected, with some beautiful fresh mint and a sweet tangy dipping/drizzling sauce.

The Chicken salad was generous and beautifully balanced in flavour. Would make a perfect lunch dish but also refreshing for dinner.

The pork with vermicelli was really tasty.

I know there are a lot more dishes to try, so we’ll be back, and hopefully quite soon too.

Non La Vietnamese Restaurant

59 Fitzroy St, Surry Hills

(02) 9332 1050

Shop 1/8 Dixon St, Sydney

Something has happened at the northern end of Chinatown. There is a whole block full of new places to explore that I have somehow managed to miss. The first trip in remedying this situation was to Uighur Cuisine, the more casual downstairs version next to the upstairs Apandim Uighur Restaurant. Confusing, yes. We sat upstairs for 10 minutes asking the lovely waiter questions while our friend waited at our ‘booked’ table downstairs. No harm done, just a few glasses of free water and a disappointed waiter.

When we finally got together at the same table we were quite excited as the menu was a mix of Turkish, Chinese and something resembling Cajun. Anyway, it was rich, lamby and delicious. This seemingly strange combination menu makes more sense when you learn the Uighurs (there are various spellings) are a Turkic people living mostly in Eastern and Central Asia.  See Wikipedia for a little more info.

Overall I think it was a great meal and something different. Even though we ordered a snow pea dish for some extra vegetables, that was oily too, so perhaps go for a walk and a cleansing lemon gelato afterwards

Always on the hunt for good takeaway options, and since a trip to Thailand last year, I’ve been somewhat obsessed with trying to find an authentic Thai restaurant. There are seventeen Thai restaurants listed in the 2009 good food guide, Spice I Am being one of them, and a favourite of mine when I am passing through the city. Unfortunately none of them are within a 5km radius of my place as the crow flies (that’s for you Lauren).

This may also be a good time to mention the cluster of Thai grocery stores near the Capitol Theatre sometimes referred to as Thainatown. I did not make that up. One famous one is called Pontip, and if you’re searching for that elusive holy basil, or pea sized bitter eggplant for your Thai curry, you’ll find them here.

My favourite cheap takeaway meal is also from near here, the sandstone building on the corner of  Pitt St and Hay St in Haymarket. They sell supplies but also pre-made meals like chicken or pork larb ( a minced meat salad, heavily seasoned with lime, fish sauce, roasted rice and chilli-  for lovers of authentic Thai cuisine only), or a curry of catfish and baby eggplant. For $7- $8 each, they are a bargain. Just cook some rice at home and a few dishes will set you back around $15. Considering Thai takeaway often costs $30-$50, it is a fantastic deal. I must look a bit soft as I get warned every time ‘It’s spicy!’.

Anyway, so I found a decent Thai takeaway place in Parramatta and thought I’d share. There are so many and this one is my favourite so far. Let me know if you have a different one.

Saute Thai Restaurant

Thai green chicken curry- I think it’s their best dish on the menu. It has a bit of heat but not too much and is really moreish.

The spring rolls are vegetarian; also nice and crunchy.

The Som Tam (green papaya salad) with soft shell crab is delicious. The som tam is nowhere near authentic, it is mild and sweet instead of hot, salty, sweet and sour in a perfect balance, however, for an ‘Aussie’ version, it’s not bad. I  am nearly always disappointed with Australian versions of som tam, because when it is done right it is so addictive.

N.B. Make your own mind up about the massaman beef curry and the pad thai. I’ve had better so I tend to stick with other choices, but the stir fries are pretty good and if you want something different, the BBQ beef is really fantastic. Thinnish steaks marinated in a sweet marinade and then cooked on a char grill. It has a tender chewiness and a smoky sweetness that is so good.

Saute Thai Restaurant

18 Phillip St Parramatta

9687 0778/ 9635 7378

The first number is often busy so try the second if you can’t get through in peak times

This is the real deal: Som Tam and sticky rice in a food court in Bangkok, Thailand

I still have vivid memories of eating it in a spotlessly clean food court in Bangkok, with a side of sticky rice and tears streaming down my cheeks it was so hot. But it was also so good I couldn’t stop. A kindly looking man carrying a toddler stopped nearby and chuckled at this westerner chowing down on his national dish with gusto. I looked up and smiled and we had a moment. Food really is the way to the heart. I shouldn’t complain so much though, I am always just happy when I see this dish on a menu, as it takes a bit more effort to prepare, and lots of restaurants won’t make it as there is not always the demand for it.

I have been missing my basil plant. It was the first to go after the weather turned cold a few months ago. The sage is still going strong but even the rosemary is starting to dry up.  Looking at some photos from a few months ago I came a cross some pics of pizza that I made in my oven, topped with fresh basil. Yum.

Prosciutto, mushroom and olive

Tomato, ricotta and basil

(I would normally use mozzarella, but happened to have some very fresh ricotta in the fridge so used that instead)

Pizza Base

1 1/2 teaspoons active dried yeast

1/2 tsp caster sugar

3 cups plain white flour, or strong ‘pizza/bread’ flour is even better

1 tsp sea salt

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra

Method

1. Combine yeast and sugar in a bowl. Pour in 1/4 cup warm water, quickly stir and cover. Between 30 and 40C  (90-100F), it should feel warm but not hot or it will kill the yeast and it won’t rise. Leave in a warm place for 10 minutes until the mixture is bubbling and frothy. If not, discard and repeat.

2. Put flour and salt in a large bowl and make a well in the centre. Add 1 cup warm water, yeast mixture and olive oil. Using your hands, stir until a dough forms. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 minutes, adding a little extra flour if dough is sticky, until  smooth and elastic. Do not add too much extra flour or dough will be tough. Place in an oiled bowl, turning to coat in oil, then cover with plastic wrap and leave in a draught-free place for 1 hour or until doubled in size.They will sit happily for a few hours if need be.

3. Pre heat the oven to 220C (430F) and also preheat two or 3 baking trays. Divide the dough into 2 or 3 balls, depending on the size of your trays and how thin you like your pizza. Roll out and flatten on sheets of baking paper, remembering that the dough will rise considerably.

4. Spread pizza bases with passata and whatever toppings you like, a little grated mozzarella on top is always nice too. Slide baking paper sheets carefully onto hot trays and pop back quickly into the oven. Bake 15-20 minutes or until the base is cooked and the top is crisp.

N.B. If you don’t roll the pizza bases out thin enough, the top will burn before the base is cooked.